Month: August 2019

Author- Anju Gyanchand

Majestic landscapes, aromatic coffee estates, magnificent waterfalls and pleasant weather; Coorg certainly is blessed by the gods. And though it is a haven for adventure lovers, it has enough meat for all kinds of travellers. And no matter what your preference, you will enjoy your visit.

Okay, let’s get the adventure lovers out of the way first.

Rafting

Rafting is immensely popular, and two fierce rivers, Bara pole and Kaveri at Dubare are sufficient to keep the adrenaline pumping for those adventure rushes. The white frothy river with speedy waters and rapids, flowing through beautiful landscapes, makes for an ideal river rafting experience.

Trekking

For trekkers, the Brahmagiri peak and Tadianmole peak, the highest in Coorg at 1748 m. will draw you in. Though some might find it a difficult way up, the views once you reach will leave you spellbound.

There are other treks as well like the Kopaty hills and Nishani betta, a lesser known route, whose beauty remains intact due to limited feet stepping on it.

Angling

The river Kaveri makes for great fishing and angling .Famous for its most prized game, the mahseer; it is most popular for a unique and out of the ordinary experience. Be warned though. You cannot take back your catch home. Any fish you catch must be released back into the water and there are licences you need from the government to fish here.

Waterfalls

Owing to the hills being fed generously by the heavy monsoon rains, a large number of waterfalls are found in Coorg; Abby falls being the most popular among them, with influx of tourists from all parts of the country. This waterfall is located on private coffee plantations. Earlier known as Jessi falls, named after a British officer’s wife, it used to be in the thick of the jungle. Due to a large number of tourists here, the place now stinks and is quite badly maintained and dirty.

Iruppu Falls is another fresh water cascade that is in the Brahmagiri range. This place is mesmerising though it can get crowded during seasons too.

Other popular waterfalls are-Malali, Chalavara and Burude falls.

Dubare Elephant Camp

The Dubare Elephant Camp is also an interesting place to visit. If elephants enchant you, then this is the palace to come in actual contact with them. Learn all about the history of elephants, their ecological impact, routine activities and their biology; absolutely everything there is to know about these giant wonders. You can also take a short ride to the Dubare reserve forest and even get a coracle ride. Dubare is a must visit.

National parks and wildlife reserves

Coorg is home to the Pushpagiri wildlife sanctuary, the Talacauveri wildlife sanctuary, the Brahmagiri wildlife sanctuary and the Nagarhole national park, all of which are rich in their lush greenery that supports some very rare and interesting creatures. You definitely want to visit at least one of them. The Nagarhole National Park is one of the best known national wildlife reserves. It has multiple varieties of flora and fauna that are not found anywhere else. Rare species of mammals, reptiles and birds can be found Brahmagiri wildlife reserve.

Golden Temple, Bylakuppe

Housed in the second largest Tibetan settlement in India after Dharamsala, the golden temple or Namdroling monastery is marvellously constructed and a very pleasing sight to see. The temple is very ornate with colourful murals depicting the different gods and demons that are part of Buddhist history and mythology.

Shopping in the market area is also a good option, as you will find things here that will not be easily available in regular shops.

You can also visit the Sera monastery located 2 kms away from the Namdroling monastery. Who knows, you might just find enlightenment in such calm and serene surroundings!

Raja’s Seat

Named for the rajas who enjoyed watching the sunset from up here, the raja’s seat is a refreshing sight from where you can watch the magnificent misty hills. The structure itself is small and built on a high level from where a commanding view of the valley is visible.

There is also a toy train ride for children.

Talacauvery

Known as the source of the river Kaveri, this place has tremendous religious significance and is   situated at 1276 m. above sea level. On special festival days, this place is swamped by pilgrims wanting to bathe here. There are about 400 steps you can climb up as well, to get a view of the splendid surrounding hills.

Omkareshwara Temple

Known for its architecture that is a blend of the Islamic and gothic styles, this temple is dedicated to lord Shiva and built by king Lingarajendra . Very popular with the religious, this place is worth a visit.

Madikeri Fort

Preserving the history of a bygone era, this fort stands in the middle of Madikeri town.

It was constructed of mud in the 17^th century by Muddu Raja, the king of Coorg back then; it has since had many changes made to it by later invaders, like Tipu sultan who rebuilt it using granite.

The church inside was once known to be a temple bearing witness to its changes.

Life size magnanimous elephants stand at the entrance. And a view of the entire panorama is seen from inside. It now houses the government museum.

Cauvery Nisargadhama

An island formed by the river Cauvery in Coorg, this 64 acre property surrounded by its creator mother Kaveri, can be accessed from a hanging bridge. Incredibly picturesque with its thick bamboos and teakwood trees it has elephant rides and boat rides on offer. Where the water is shallow, one can even get one’s feet wet. Accommodation here is reasonable and the cottages are quite comfortable.

Nalakunad palace

The hunting lodge of the Rajas dating from the 18^thcentury, it is at the bottom of Coorg’s highest peak Tadianmol. Though it is in a dilapidated condition, this structure tells of the glorious past it witnessed in its now fading murals.

Gaddige rajas tomb

Tombs of the Kodavad kings, dating back from the 1800s, lie here inside this indo-sarcenic structure. There are also two tombs of Coorg’s army chiefs and a priest.

The tombs are Muhammadan style with domes and turrets. Even the bars of the windows are made of fine brass and adorned with beautiful engravings.

Honammana Kere Lake

Named after goddess Honamma, who sacrificed her life for the welfare of people, this is the largest lake in Kodagu. During religious festivals, this place can attract a large number ofvisitors. It is surrounded by scenic green landscapes that are synonymous with Coorg. A temple is erected in her

honour.

There are several such wonders here in Coorg that need to be seen to realise their beauty. If a vacation is on your mind, make it to Coorg!

As the Monsoon has arrived, it’s time to get spike up your adrenaline levels and try white water rafting in Coorg Barapole. Get wet and wild in the “funnest” way possible.  What’s a sure way to do that?  White water rafting in Coorg , of course!

The Baraplote river in Coorg is a perfect place for River rafting in South India. With its level one to lever4 rapids it provides maximum thrill.

 If you’re a novice, you know what’s coming below.   However, if you’re a beginner, you might want to stay posted.

White Water Rafting Tips for beginners

• Get ready to get wet!  Dress in comfortable, easy, fast drying clothes that aren’t heavy or loose and stay away from flip flops and “crocs”. Wear open sandals that will stay on your feet.

• Make sure to wear loads of waterproof sunscreen.  The sun can be pretty harsh and will cook you in no time.

• Let your guide know your level of expertise in swimming. If you fall into the water, orient   yourself and assume the “swimmer’s position”- lying on your back, feet in front and face downstream. If you need to swim facing forward, roll over, your feet up and turn your body in the direction you need to swim.

• Maintain contact with your guide at all times, following all his instructions to the T.

•  You will need a reasonable fitness level, as this activity burns loads of calories while consuming plenty of energy by engaging your arms and core muscles.

• Wear your protective gear like the life jacket and helmet properly and keep it on at all times. Check it at regular intervals to ensure utmost safety.

• Don’t be cocky and stay alert.  There is a reason why you have a guide in the raft. It’s all fun and games on a smooth river but in high rapids it could mean encountering serious difficulties.

• Work as a team. No matter how strong you are physically, it’s not about paddling hard, but paddling together.  

• There is a proper way to sit in the raft, which your instructor will tell you about. Your feet need to be planted firmly under the air tube in front of you. Make sure they are secure but not jammed; in case you need to get out quickly if the boat topples over. Sit on the outer rim so that balance is kept equal on both sides.

• Make sure you don’t wrap the rope around any part of your body! You want to be able to get away quickly and safely in case of a sticky situation.

• If you sense any type of danger like the raft hitting a boulder, don’t try and stop the raft or move away using your paddle. Less so your limbs. Let the raft bounce over the rocks as it is the safer for you.

• Paddling deeper into the water rather than surface will help you manoeuvre the boat correctly, especially if the rapids get stronger.

• Panicking is a waste of time. Your instructors are trained to handle any type of situation encountered while on the run. Trust them and follow their safety instructions and you should be fine.

Common commands used for rafting.

    There are some are pretty  standard   commands , like forward paddle, back paddle and left turn/right turn, but they can also vary to minor degrees depending on your instructors.

• PADDLE FORWARD

It is as straightforward as it sounds. This command means to paddle forward with the team simultaneously. The front paddlers are in command and they should be synchronised and the ones at the back need to watch them and follow.

• PADDLE BACKWARD

This command requires that everyone paddles in sync with the lead paddlers but in a backward direction. The important thing to remember is to lean forward, engage your core muscles and pull the paddle through the water behind you for a strong stroke.

• LEFT BACK

It is vital to remember during this command to stay focused as it can get you confused very quickly. Kinda like manoeuvring a car in reverse. Those on the left side will back paddle while those on the right will continue to paddle forward. Momentum can really make you lose control so don’t overthink it. Just follow your guide.

• RIGHT BACK

Vis a Vis the left back command, this one requires you to stay alert.  This is, of course, the opposite of the left back command wherein the right paddlers will back paddle.

These commands help turn the boat quickly in case of sudden rapid changes and it needs to be executed correctly.                

• STOP

This self-explanatory command is as important as others even though it is simple as it helps keep control over the raft once it’s lined up in position to get started or keep your boat on track in case you need to orient yourself after a precarious situation.

• LEAN IN

This command is yelled out when a dangerous hit is in sight, when a steep drop is expected or simply when a big wave is imminent. Once this command is yelled, everyone in the boat is expected to lean down towards the inside centre of the raft, while grabbing the safety line with one hand. The other hand should ideally still be holding the paddle in a t grip.

•         Over right- over left

When stuck in a rock or danger of a flip is at hand, this command will mean that you need to throw your weight on that  side .This will push the raft back down into the water and prevent it from dis balancing and flipping.

•          Hang on- get down

When this command is yelled, you need to literally “get down” and grab whatever you can to stay on, while the “hang on” means just sit tight and hold on keeping your balance.

•  High siding

This is when you are directed to save the boat from capsizing in the worst case scenario. If the raft hits sideways in a current, the upstream tube can be sucked under because of the current and the boat might flip.

The key is to move quickly to the high side of the boat when you hear this command, throwing all of your body weight toward that side of the boat. The idea is to distribute your weight so that the raft doesn’t flip.

If you keep these basics in mind, you will experience nature’s raw beauty whilst staying safe and having a thoroughly enjoyable experience.

Author-Anju.Ghyanchand.

Any place you visit in India has its own unique idiosyncrasies thatare inimitable and make it different from other parts of the country, food usually being one of themost prominent factors in defining that identity. Coorg is certainly no less, and when it comes to food, Coorgi’s have a very meaty palate.Those visiting this wonderland with a taste for spicy non vegetarian fare will most likely leave their hearts here!

Coorg is synonymous with coffee but also with pork…yep…you would’ve definitely heard that “Coorgi’s stuff themselves with pork and drink like fish”. It has earned this reputation with abject justice. They really are big on food and drinking.

PANDI CURRY AND KADAMBUTTU

Most famous is perhaps, the pandicurry, a luxurious pork curry that is paired usually with kadambuttu or steamed rice balls. Chances are you have heard the name before my having mentioned it. This dish originated from the times of the raj, when hunting wild boar and consuming its meat was commonplace. Now that hunting isillegal,domesticated pigs have replaced wild boar. This dish is their own invention and can go from extremely spicy to mediumspicy to less spicy, but spicy is the operating word. Beingenriched with cardamom, coconut and other spices and condiments, this pork curry is as luscious as it is tantalising.The other ingredient distinct in this dish is the kachumpuli or fermented juice of the panapuli, a locally grownfruit. The English name is brindle berry.It is dark and resembles balsamic vinegar and is similar to kokum found in Goa. This gives the meat its desired pungency and also supposedly cuts down on the cholesterol in the dish.Medical tests have also revealed that this fermented vinegar counteracts the ill effects that alcohols have on the liver. It is indispensable to kodava kitchens and you will taste it in more than one dish on your stay here.

None of the meats cooked here use any external source of oil. They are cooked in their own fat which means that they are rich in their flavour and extremely potent! Lentils are rarely eaten and wheat is a recent addition to their diets.

The famous pandi curry (pork) is one dish that you might want to recreate at home. Make sure to pick up the two key ingredients that are necessary for this dish -the pork masala powder and the kachampuli syrup. You can also try to make the pork masala yourself. But for the uninitiated,packets of pre-prepared pork masala powder and the kachumpali syrup are readily available in the local grocery stores in the towns of Coorg. The powder is basically a mix of locally grown spices slowly roasted to a deep brown colour and then finely powdered.Chances are that it will taste different from the spices available outside Coorg so be sure to pick one if you believe in complete authenticity. The Kachampuli syrup should also be picked up from here as this is the flavour that makes the curry sour.

COMBINATION FOODS

Combination foods are standard here in Coorg; string hoppers known as noolputtu eaten with chicken “kozhi” curry, steamed rice “paputtu” with mutton “yerachi” curry and mutton pulao with “kaipulipajji” a bitter orange chutney or raita.

VEGETARIAN OFFERINGS

Yep, meat, meat and more meat! Though there are vegetarian offerings too, like” baimballe” bamboo shoot and “kumbala”pumpkin which are integrated into the food. Fried “balekai “raw banana chips and curries made from the same are popular. So is “kuru” black eyed beans curry. “Pottu”, steamed veg curries are tasty as is the chutney made in Coorg….everything from “mudrakani” Bengal gram chutney and “mangye” mango chutney, yellpajji sesame seed chutney is available here. They are very different from the chutneys and pickles found up north and are consumed with almost every meal, there being so many varieties of it. A lot of coconut is used in the chutneys along with garlic and onions. This packs the chutneys full of flavour and acts as a garnishing as well, the authentic way of cooking Kodava food. The speciality of this cuisine is that it relies heavily on seasonal fruits and veggies and other plant parts like ferns and stems to bring in more flavour and variety.

The use of green chillies is more prevalent than the use of red chillies. The green ones are known cut down fat in the body and are believed to be the healthier choice.

BOLLARI FRY

Bollari fry made from Mangalore cucumber with its slight sweetish touch is a great accompaniment to akki roti, which is made out of rice flour. This dish quickly becomes a favourite of all who taste it. Being a simple dish to cook, it is as filling as it is tasty. It is not surprising to see that almost all the Kodava dishes have paddy, it being a staple crop grown in this region. Rice is also eaten with kanji a vegetable stew.

ODUPUTTU

The ethereal oduputtu or “odu”, another speciality is made from unfermented rice batter sometimes with a little fenugreek seed ground into the rice .What really makes it unique is how it is made. Nooil whatsoever is used; instead, the pan is rubbed with a lump of resin, known as “banda”. This is the hardened resin of the Indian Copal tree, Vateriaindica. As the resin vaporizes, it leaves a barely discernible trace on the base, which takes on a subtle, elusive, fragrance that fills the entire room. You can almost eat the scent before even putting a morsel in your mouth.

BELLA KAPI

Plenty of coffee added is in the mix too. Bella kapi- black coffee with jaggery needs to be tasted to get the full effect of how incredible raw coffee flavour can be. Make sure you do try it next time you’re here. You will not come out of the experience disappointed, I can guarantee you that.  And if you are still unsatisfied, wait till you smell the homemade wines…there are so many varieties that you would have to be in human to not appreciate at least one flavour!Cashews,hibiscus, pineapples ,rose petals, plums, raisins, rice, persimmons, passion fruit, , grapes, gooseberries,… well pretty much anything that catches their fancy is fermented and turned to liquid  immediately! The downside is that homemade wines need to be consumed within a year or two of being brewed. The longer they are unconsumed, the faster they degenerate into sediments, or worse… turn into vinegar that will need to be discarded.

If you are still unconvinced (and most likely, the fussiest eater in the world!),you can stick to the traditional south Indian breakfast comprising ofiddi appams, dosas, upma, idlis, and appams which can be eaten with the usual accompaniments of coconut chutney, sambhar and vegetable stew.

KUMMU CURRY

If you love mushrooms, you should try out the Kummu curry which has all the classic Coorgi flavours and spices which really make the mushroom shine and turns an ordinary ingredient into something quite delightful! Chuttakummu is roasted mushrooms which are simply delicious!  Mushrooms are also pickled.

SESAONAL FRUITS AND VEGETABLE DELIGHTS

Seasonal vegetables and fruits are also consumed asthey are fresh and packed with flavour like the jackfruit and bamboo that grows in the rainy season. Koovaleputtu is made from jackfruit steamed in the banana leaf. Kajaya is a donut shaped sweet made from…wait for it…rice flour (what else?!) and jaggery that is quite popular. Coorgi’s aren’t as fond of sweets as they are of their  meat  but if you must indulge then try the Paaputtu ,which is a mix of steamed broken rice, coconut and sugar or tharipayasa,  a dessert made from sweetened milk and broken rice.

Local water bodies also provide ample seafood like crabs and different varieties of fish which arepopularly utilised in a lot of dishes. These are made usually during the monsoons.

 It was also once customary to place beed is along with the betel nut plate, for departing guests, though not many follow that tradition today. Since betel is grown here, it is consumed on a daily basis by a large population too.

People living here have since time immemorial, been reliant on local produce that they grew on the land and source from the surrounding forests, and this is reflected in their cuisine. They take pride in everything they grow and hunt and that reflects in the way they cook their food and the way they enjoy their meals. They are basically self-sufficient in all that they eat, drink and grow.

You might travel the world and taste food from all corners of the world. But in Coorg you will taste flavours you didn’t even know existed! And will surely leave with a desire to return for the coffee and the food if nothing else!!

–some basic things to remember on your visit to Coorg
Author-Anju. Gyanchand.

A general know how about any place is necessary in order to enjoy its full impact and not encounter any untoward incidents that will leave a sour taste in your mouth. Though going to Coorg is generally a hassle free affair, there are some basic things to keep in mind before your visit there.

DO’S

• Okay, first things first, just let me get this out of the way….COFFEE!! Yes! DO drink the coffee!!!!!I can vouch for the fact that it is unlike any you would have tasted anywhere in the world. And if there is only one thing you will take back with you, let it be coffee. You won’t regret it. Even carry some coffee beans back as souvenirs for friends and family, if you will.
• Also, if you are adventurous, Coorg is the place for you. Make sure you DO try out atleast one of several adventure activities on offer. Everything from rafting and trekking, to waterfall rappelling and ATV rides is there for you to choose from.

If you specifically want to climb a peak or go rafting, then DO make sure you find out the best seasons for this. Adventure activities only happen based on weather conditions and seasons.

• And DO carry water and sunscreen. Also beware of those nasty leeches if you are there in the monsoons.
• There are several places for the religiously inclined. Like any place in India, while visiting temples and holy sites make sure you DO dress appropriately so as to not disrespect the land or the people.

• Though it is ideal to keep your valuables with you at all times, there is a chance of getting robbed in busy places like buses and temples especially during festivals here. DO take care of expensive gadgets or cash in crowded places.
• Even though the Coorgi people are generally very helpful, DO gather as much information about the places you desire to visit so as not to be misled or get lost.
• If you DO use public transport in Coorg, DO find out the fares from locals and negotiate it before hailing a vehicle. Or better still; DO hire a prepaid cab to avoid the fuss of haggling over fares later on.
• Staying in a homestay is highly recommended, especially one on a coffee estate, to experience the raw culture of Coorg. DO find one from many decent ones available that you can easily make a booking for online through trusted websites or get in touch with them directly.
• If you are the social kind, DO feel free to talk to locals, there is no better way to find out about the culture and idiosyncrasies of a people different from yourself. DO Respect the people and their privacy though. Being polite will take you a long way.
• DO visit the wildlife sanctuaries and the national parks.

• Coorg is extremely scenic, so finding an ideal location will be tantamount to getting the best out of your experience. Also, DO turn off your phone unless absolutely necessary. Trust me; it will make your visit so much more peaceful.
• Though the crime rate in Coorg is very low compared to other parts of India, you DO want to take precautions when you venture on your own. Staying out at night might not be the best thing to do.
• DO try out the honey farming and bee keeping tour. It isn’t on many to do lists but it is a rare experience that you DO want to try. It is interesting to know the impact of bees on human survival. Also, the pure, sweet, unadulterated and unrefined honey you taste here will be unlike the bottled one we eat in cities. The difference in taste is astounding.
• DO taste the very many specialties of Coorg, ranging from pork pandi curry to homemade wine.
• Coorg being 3500 ft. above sea level, can go from hot to chilly within minutes ,so DO carry light sweaters just in case. Summers are harsh so DO carry caps and loads of sunscreen.
• DO wear appropriate footwear, most of the district is hilly so, a sturdy pair shoes would be the best bet even if a stroll in the market is the only thing you will do.
• Coorg can be a photographers’ delight. Make sure you DO carry a good camera with a good zoom lens.
• DO try and visit the Dubare elephant camp. Watching the elephants with their mahouts isn’t something you can witness every day. Who knows? You might even get a free ride if you behave!

DON’TS

• It is advisable to move around in a group if you venture far from the city. Getting lost in the thick jungle is easy and you DO NOT want to be caught in such a situation.
• Coorg is not for the party animals; DO NOT expect that you will find city nightlife here.  Just enjoy nature and quiet peaceful time with yourself.
• There is a rich diversity of wildlife you will find in Coorg that should remain for posterity, so DO NOT harm any animals or dirty your surroundings.
• The thick jungles hide many beauties that you DO NOT want to miss. DONOT act funny with the animals or try to feed them and agitate them. If you find that hard, imagine yourself inside its stomach! That’ll DO it!
• There are so many rare birds that exist only in Coorg. DONOT make noise and stay as quiet as possible, especially when you are walking through the Ghats, otherwise you will miss sighting them.
• When visiting a waterfall or river DONOT jump for a swim or it might be the last time you ever will. The rivers are wild and unpredictable.\

Yes, as you have probably realised, there are more DO’S in Coorg than there are DON’T’S which makes this land of coffee a relatively hassle-free endeavour. Make sure you embark on it atleast once in your life! You won’t regret it!